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Automotive Assistance Questions

I did exactly what SA said on a trailer once. I still have the trailer, but the seized bearing wore down a deep groove in the axle that I can't replace because they don't make that type of axle anymore (35 year old Williams trailer) so instead I am stuck replacing the hub at least once every 12-18 months at a cost of $65 a pop. No fun.
 
Thanks guys.

Now if could just get that Fletch scene out of my head....
"Aww, come on guys, It's so simple nowadays, maybe you need a refresher course. It's ALL ball bearings these days"

 
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So, why would anyone in their right mind do this instead of taking it to a shop? Because a shop will charge you anywhere from $900-$1500 PER SIDE to do it for you. Free, regardless of the work involved, is always a better option.

I got an estimate over the phone to do one side, they said it would be $349, tops.....possibly even cheaper

Maybe worth it to pay them ?
 
Take it, but check out their reputation first. Maybe it's just a regional thing that makes the price difference so much, but you want to be absolutely sure they have a solid reputation so you don't end up with more problems than you started with.
 
If you were quoted $349 per side, you should have followed up asking how long it would take, and how many times you would have to take it back! Warranty is something else to consider, like is there any!

If you don't know how, or don't have the tls, you can get it done cheaper by supplying ALL the parts required, then taking the vehicle to a reputable mechanic, who should only charge you for labor.
 
I'm fortunate I didn't attempt this myself.
Even the pro mechanics had a hard time with it, and it took them hours longer than they thought.
When they removed the caliper, they learned that the whole "threading" assembly comes out too, with my particular make of car, so they had to re-install that, and not only was it additional labor time, but required an additional part, with a new "coil assembly".
But the cool thing is, unlike some mechanics, they stayed true to their word on the original estimate, and despite the extra parts and labor, they charged me exactly what they quoted. Now that's the good "rep" I'm talkin about :)
And of course, if I tried to do it myself, it would have been a disaster.
 
You did the right thing fear. It takes a wise man to know their limitations. I can tell you countless stories of someone trying to save a couple dollars by doing a job themselves only to later bring it to us. Then is ends up costing so much more than it would have originally. Sounds like you deal with a great shop.
 
Believe it or not, it is the D-I-Y'ers who keep a lot of mechanics employed.

More so in the motorcycle shops. After all, motorcycles are just lawn mowers with two wheels. LOL

God bless their souls..... I love those people so. :)
 
Mechanics around here are dicks with certain things. That, along with the money savings and the fact I can do repairs myself, keeps me avoiding them. A perfect example - I bought upper and lower ball joints for my truck this past Summer. I did the uppers on both sides, and the lower on one side, but the lower for the driver's side was shipped damaged. After busting my ass doing all that work, I still had one bad ball joint, and had to wait for a new one to be shipped.

By the time it got here, I just didn't feel like ****ing with it again, ball joints aren't fun. Easily my least favorite automotive repair. Since I had the part and didn't want to put it on, I called around to various places asking how much they would charge me to put it on. I got the same answer from over a dozen places - they refused to put on a part a customer provided. None of them gave a reason, so I am convinced it's collusion. The bastards.

So my truck to this day has that bad ball joint on it. Anyone who has installed lower ball joints on a truck understands my pain. The fact I own no pneumatic tools makes it that much more of a bitch. Brute strength and busted knuckles.
 
Ok, I need to know the name of what I am missing. The first pic is the tire intact. Second pic with the missing part.

409814635.jpg

409814636.jpg
 
Could be. Might be a wheel center cap? Just never thought I would need something like it.
 
It is the rim centre cap. All it does is keep unnecessary crap away from the spindle nut. Other than that, it is for looks as it matches the rim and makes the lug nuts look like they are locked.
 
As someone who has replaced multiple hubs on both vehicles and trailers for people, you should replace it. Dirt, water, brake dust, etc. can and will all get in there. It will rust the spindle, dry up the grease, and collect enough abrasive junk to corrode the spindle, the spindle nut, and the hub bearings. Eventually with no cover (the time frame completely depends on how often and how far it is driven) the hub bearings will break, and you will have a problem on your hands that $15 could have prevented. The part you are looking for is called a wheel spindle dust cap. The one that came with the car was designed fancy to blend in with the rim, but the replacements can be had for as little as $5 at most auto parts stores if you aren't worried about an exact Toyota match.

They look like this, but some have a more rounded dome like top........images.jpg
 
Thanks for all of the help. Found an exact match last night and it should get here by late in the week.
 

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