Tech/Computer advice from me

Replace the PSU. When they start to play up, they go downhill very quickly, but will often play well after a lot of frustration.

You would get partial start-ups with a faulty PSU as it wouldn't supply enough power to power everything, only some things, and thus, not everything would initialise as it should, and thus, a partial start up. I've had two desktops do this (one of my old one's; the other was my SIL's), and as soon as the PSU was replaced, ALL problems were rectified.
 
That sounds like a huge relief. I assume that a PSU is much cheaper to replace than a CPU or Motherboard. And also probably much easier for a novice to handle as a DIY, than the other 2 alternatives, eh ?

So, when buying a replacement PSU, what specifications or criteria do I look for ?
Just a certain voltage ?
 
The best way to do it is to take the old one out (leave all the wiring connected where possible) and make a note of the specifications. The replacement should be the same, or better, than the original. Go and get the replacement straight away as you are already half way through replacing the old PSU. Leaving the wiring intact for now will help later as you then just replace the wiring as you go. You can install the new PSU, then replace each wiring loom as you remove the old one.

I made the mistake of thinking that a PSU is a PSU, and that any replacement would do, but I soon found that reasoning to be wrong.
 
However, I recently asked a computer-knowledgeable friend of mine about that possible diagnosis, and he replied that the "power supply either works, or it doesn't. There's no grey area".


Yeah well you can say that about any of the computer parts. They're either working or they aren't. Unfortunately experience shows that any part can do weird things that either mislead you as to what the problem is, or just make it really hard to track down.

Considering how cheap and easy it is to replace a PSU it's a good first guess.

It's also possible there's a bad connection between the power button on the front of your computer and the motherboard. Personally I'd re-seat the pins that your front panel (on the front of the computer where the lights/buttons are) connects to on the motherboard first. Those are delicate, and if you give me the manufacturer of your motherboard (or if it's a dell/hp the model and service tag #) I can look up a picture to show you, it's not hard but you have to be careful and plug everything in the right way :)
 
That sounds like a huge relief. I assume that a PSU is much cheaper to replace than a CPU or Motherboard. And also probably much easier for a novice to handle as a DIY, than the other 2 alternatives, eh ?

So, when buying a replacement PSU, what specifications or criteria do I look for ?
Just a certain voltage ?

What you should do is get the same one you're replacing. It just removes issues for the person if they don't really know what they're doing.

If you're not going to do that (variety of reasons you may not, maybe it's not for sale anymore?) then you want to look for a few things:

- Make sure the Watt rating is at least equal to what you have. Greater than is fine. Equal is great. Lower is no good (possibly).

- Check and see if it has a 20 or 24 pin connector going to the main board. They make PSU's that are 20, 24, and 20+4 connectors. 20 will only work with 20 pin mainboards, 24 will only work with 24 pin main boards, and 20+4 will work with either - it comes with a 20 pin connector and then a 4 pin connector that snaps on/off to fit a 24 pin board.

- You'll need to make sure you have enough connectors to power all your drives/devices. You'll need to check how many IDE and SATA devices you have, and make sure it comes with enough plugs for both. Getting a PSU with 5 SATA and 5 IDE power plugs when you have 6 IDE devices wont cut it.

Here's what the back of an IDE device looks like - [media]http://personal-computer-tutor.com/abc1/images/HDJumpers.jpg[/media]
The cable that connects to the main board is on the left, the power connector is on the right.

Here's what the back of a SATA devices looks like - [media]http://www.hothardware.com/articleimages/Item1019/wdfMobile_SATA_BEVSd.jpg[/media]
Main board connector on the right, power connector on the left. They look like L's turned on their sides.

They're obviously very different.



if you have a dell get the exact same power supply. dell uses proprietary **** so there is a 99% chance whatever you buy wont fit or wont work for some reason. just type the model name with the word power supply into a google shopping search and you'll find it easy. ie: "dell optiplex 480 power supply" should get you what you need.


edit: i got confused and called the main board connectors 10, 12, and 10+2 connectors, they're actually 20, 24, and 20+4. I've fixed that.
 
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Hmmm, that's an interesting possibility about it being a potential mechanical issue related to the actual power button. It totally makes sense. I imagine I should check that first, before replacing the power supply. Of course, this means turning the computer off. And possibly not being able to turn it on, again :(
 
Hmmm, that's an interesting possibility about it being a potential mechanical issue related to the actual power button. It totally makes sense. I imagine I should check that first, before replacing the power supply. Of course, this means turning the computer off. And possibly not being able to turn it on, again :(

Yeah, you'll see a bunch of little plugs that hook into a series of pins, the cables attached to the plugs will run in a bundle to the front of the machine.

The series of pins on the mail board will look like this:
[media]http://www.auzentech.com/site/images/xfi/xfi_front_panel_audio_conn.jpg[/media]

The plugs connecting to them will look like this:
[media]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5390485904_e84fcb4ef3.jpg[/media]

Unplug one at a time then plug them back in keeping track of where it plugged in and how; each plug has a positive and a negative, if you plug it in backwards you could cause damage (at best it just wont work). If you can identify which one is the power you can just do that one, since the problem is power related. It should be marked.

IF, for some reason, you can't remember where one goes or which way it goes then you have to look it up online based on the exact make/model of the motherboard - if you have the book that came with it (unlikely if you bought a pre-made machine) it should have it in there.

If that doesn't work, there's a large 'watch like' battery plugged in to the main board. It actually keeps some of the essential, under-the-hood settings your computer uses when it boots - the battery allows the computer to keep those settings. It's possible that batter is dead and causing the problems; try swapping it out. IF YOU UNPLUG THAT BATTERY YOU MAY HAVE TO GO INTO THE BIOS TO SET SETTINGS TO GET YOUR COMPUTER TO FULLY BOOT AGAIN. You may want to go into your BIOS and write down all the settings before you do it... The easiest way to do it since you're having diffulty booting up would be to restart (do not shutdown or power off, choose restart from the computer screen) and when the first black screen comes up it should say 'Press F <something> for BIOS', probably f10 or f12.
 
heads up:

there is a "new" virus going around that takes control of your browser and says you've been caught downloading/viewing illegal material and wants you to pay a fine. it looks official from the FBI but obviously it isnt.
Yes... That one has been around for a while. Depending on which one it is it can be nasty. We had one machine that just kept getting it. You don't always have to wipe completely but with that one in would suggest it :(
 
I installed windows 8 on my laptop over the weekend... all I can say is eh...

I can see how it would be great with a tablet. But with a regular laptop I'm not convinced (yet) that the changes in workflow are worth it. It seems like re-learning how to use my computer without any of the benefits since it's not a touchscreen or a tablet...
 
Yeah, I'm also not impressed with Outlook 2013. I have office 2013 installed, but outlook is the only one I use on a regular basis. It's actually pretty hard to read, everything blends together with the color scheme...

Windows 8 has some neat features... like installing the twitter app (which works a lot like phone apps), then docking it on the side of my screen while running the desktop with the other 4/5 of the screen. I like that. My MacBook does that and I really liked it on that too - running phone apps is nice because it gives you consistency with things you use on your phone.

I'm growing used to it, but other than the apps I don't have anything good to say about it. It's different - but nothing makes me say "yeah, you need to upgrade from windows 7".
 
I have some commentary about your PC buying guide. The FSB is no longer used in CPUs since most of the Nehalem Core series processors. It's still useful though, for looking at older used systems.

I also believe that for desktops, a Core i3 or even lower might not be a bad buy for those who do not need much brute processing power. Hell, I'm using a Celeron G550 and the system is pretty snappy.

Mechanical hard drives are indeed very fragile. I treat them as more sensitive than thin glass. One drop from 3 feet, and you're likely to get crashed heads. However, SSD hard drives also can fail even though there are no moving parts. They "wear out" so to speak or the hardware is just a bad batch.


Also, when shopping for CPUs, GHzs are actually very inaccurate in telling you which CPU is faster if the processors use different microarchitechtures. You have to keep up with the microarchitechtures being used on the CPU. Now, within the same microarchitecture, they are an absolute indicator of speed. However, core count also affects CPU speed.

I would say that one can build one yourself if you have very specific needs, such as using a parallel port or you want to over- or -underclock the CPU. It is a very research-intensive task though.


That sounds like a huge relief. I assume that a PSU is much cheaper to replace than a CPU or Motherboard. And also probably much easier for a novice to handle as a DIY, than the other 2 alternatives, eh ?

So, when buying a replacement PSU, what specifications or criteria do I look for ?
Just a certain voltage ?
There are cheap PSUs available, but those under 20 bucks are usually duds that will eventually wreck your microelectronics and/or cause system instability.

Your problem might be fixed, but I want to post this just in case you or anyone else is actually looking at buying a PSU.

It is best to NOT just look at price and instead look for PSU review sites. Hardwaresecrets.com and Johnnyguru are sites I stumbled across when building my budget-tier rig. Hardware Secrets, especially, takes you through the PSU and how it works with great detail.
 
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Thanks, tshile, and SCP.
I have not addressed the problem yet, as I'm very hesitant with my lack of experience, to put my hands on the guts of the machine. Trying to build up my knowledge and confidence before doing so, to make sure I'm ready to avoid any mistakes that might further the dilemma. But I'll keep you guys posted as it progresses. Thanks again for your helpfulness.
 
Well, Fear, I'll give some info and leads on how to proceed when you do get down to the nitty gritty.

Turning on the computer without a power button is actually a simple task. It involves finding the pwr_btn or similarly named pin and the ground pin horizontally next to it. Then, you short circuit the pins by touching them briefly with a screwdriver. If the computer struggles to turn on using this method, then the likely culprit is the power supply.
Here is a vid (and there are others):
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4FOBL1c3pA[/media]

You first want to identify the wires that connect the power button of your computer case to the pins on the motherboard. You have to pull out the header to get to the bare pins. The header is just the rubber end with a couple holes you push into the pins.

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2) PC times out a lot. The processing freezes up. During these episodes, I can move the mouse/cursor around, but can't get it to respond to any clicks, or even move from one browser to another. Goes into "Not responding" mode. Not sure what else to call it. But it lasts a minute or 2, until it finally "finally comes back into consciousness". It is more likely to happen if I have multiple browsers open, but has even been known to happen with just one browser in use. I have done a complete clean-up on my PC, to check for virus, spyware, malware, etc. Besides that, I've cleaned it up using some of the programs suggested in other threads, such as CC Cleaner, Disk Redactor, Windows Washer, and Disc Defragmentor. So, as far as I know, my PC is clean. But still has the problem. Could it be I just need to upgrade the memory ?
Here are the specs :
OS - Windows XP 2002, Service Pack 3
Processor - Intel Celeron CPU 2.80 GHZ
496 MB RAM
The constant freezing and nonresponsiveness is partly due to the processor being slow as a sloth and partly due to having not enough RAM.

What happens when you don't have enough RAM is that the hard drive's paging file(Windows) or swap partition is used as "extra" RAM. But data and processing instructions travels much more slowly than between the hard drive and CPU than it does between the RAM and CPU. The result is a lot of "noise" from inside the case due to the hard drive seeks that result from using the pagefile as RAM.

You definitely have insufficient RAM for modern day programs. Firefox and Chrome are memory guzzlers and can gobble up 1GB of RAM easy these days. Open up Task Manager while your loading your computer with typical programs you use. The RAM usage it shows will likely be greater 496 MBs of RAM if you load up a couple brows with a bunch of tabs. If you were to upgrade anything, upgrade the ram first.

From the specs you listed, I suspect you have a Celeron processor from the Pentium 4 era. Don't be fooled by the GHzs, those processors are slow, slow, slow despite those GHzs. If I were to guess, it's a Socket 478 motherboard.

If you were to upgrade the RAM, a good deal of the delays will be removed, but for intensive tasks such as Google Maps or a flash video, the CPU will still stuggle. I've had a experience with a 2.53 GHz Celeron D, so I know the pain of computing on a Celeron D.

Before you crack open the case, there are a couple bits of software you can use to look at your system: CPU-Z.
CPU-Z handy tool will give you info on the CPU, RAM , and a couple other things about your comp. You can post screenshots of a program window by using Alt+Print Screen and saving the image using Paint if you want.
 
So I got thrown under the bus the other day at work and I have tried to scan everything trying to confirm I was not the problem.

Apparently there was a virus that reached our share drive at work. I have a Mac so I am not sure how the hell I could be the culprit (not that Macs can't get viruses, but mine is extremely secure). Then I remembered that I use my personal HP Laptop while at work. I recently uploaded Adobe Lightroom trial version for the PC. Other than at work, where the laptop stays the majority of the time and has for the last 2 months, I have done nothing with it.

But someone I work with is stating emphatically that I was the source with my flash drive. Well, I was submitting some images Friday and she scanned my flash drive and nothing appeared. In yo face beyooootch! She said it must have been my old flashdrive, one I haven't used in weeks but the virus appeared 5 days prior.

So I bring the laptop home and run some system checks and cannot find anything. I have scanned the older media card and I cannot find anything. I know there is the answer to this question in this thread, but I am too lazy to read back through. Is there a more detailed way to search these items to be 100% certain my laptop and flash drive are not the source of this virus?
 
Does anyone else get/have that stupid redirect virus? I have an updated Mcafee account but it doesn't get rid of it somehow.

Is there something different I can do with my settings to prevent and or remove it?
 
El, Macs are actually pretty vulnerable, based mainly on the fact that their users think they aren't and don't take precautions. If you're aware of it then normally they are more secure simple because they aren't targeted as much. That is changing though as Macs become more popular.

The fact that it wound up on a shared drive pretty much rules you out because Macs can't map dfs drives and can only connect to windows shares over smb. If it wound up on a share its much more likely a pc did it because they map drives and virus look for those.

Would really need to know what the virus was first, and have access to the servers to really know though. Most companies don't implement the type of logging required to know for sure where it came from.
 
Does anyone else get/have that stupid redirect virus? I have an updated Mcafee account but it doesn't get rid of it somehow.

Is there something different I can do with my settings to prevent and or remove it?

That's a pain in the ass and it really depends on which one you have. There are a lot of them.

There are two things you can check that are easy and should do first.

1 - go to C:\Windows\System32\Drivers\etc
there is a file called 'hosts'
open it up in notepad and copy paste everything in that file in a post and let me see it.

when I say everything I mean everything. viruses will burry something thousands of lines at the bottom to make the file appear to not have any more. so make sure you scrolled all the way to the bottom. you can dump any white space, I don't care about that.

2 - which browser are you using? if you have a problem in internet explorer try another browser (firefox or chrome) and see if you have the same results. let me know.
 

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