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Stop Replacing Your Alternator

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Extreme said:
To check the alignment, just go driving on a straight road and let go of the wheel for a second or two. A properly aligned vehicle will always stay straight, but if it's off even a little bit, your car will gradually ease over to the side. That's something that is best leaving to a mechanic fixed, because it's a pain in the ass to get right, and most places only charge about $75. It's well worth it to avoid screwing with it and getting it wrong
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Actually, you're only partly right on this. This will work fine on a rear wheel drive vehicle for the most part, but with front wheel drive, you have to put it in neutral and coast. Front wheel drive vehicles have what known as "torque steer." If you take your hands off the wheel while stopped, and hit the gas, the car will consistently go to one side or the other, depending on the configuration of the transaxle, axle length differential. Even on rear wheel drive vehicles, it's best to coast when checking for proper alignment.

And no, I'm not trying to discredit you, or derail your thread.
 
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Miles Monroe said:
Actually, you're only partly right on this. This will work fine on a rear wheel drive vehicle for the most part, but with front wheel drive, you have to put it in neutral and coast. Front wheel drive vehicles have what known as "torque steer." If you take your hands off the wheel while stopped, and hit the gas, the car will consistently go to one side or the other, depending on the configuration of the transaxle, axle length differential. Even on rear wheel drive vehicles, it's best to coast when checking for proper alignment.

And no, I'm not trying to discredit you, or derail your thread.
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Appreciate the info Miles. I've done several rear wheel drive jobs over the years, but never a front wheel job. And that brings me to a question - I'm assuming this applies to 4WD vehicles too.

Too, I always checked by coasting anyway - just figured that was a given.
 
Fear The Spear said:
My ABS light goes on and off actually. That, along with my Brake light. But I happen to think it is actually my brakes, because they are acting up. Often, when I hit my brakes, the opposite of what I would expect from bad brakes happens - instead of them braking slower, they actually SLAM to an extreme sudden stop. I assume this is because the brake pads are probably worn down all the way to the metal, and thus the metal causing the more sudden stoppage. Another thing they do, is my tires squeal anytime I a) make an extreme turn, b) accelerate from a stop, even if it's not a sudden, hi-speed acceleration, c) come to a sudden stop. But the strange thing is, these symptoms are often signs of bad tire wear, but all tires are either brand new, or have plenty of tread on them. So, I am thinking it's the actual brakes. Do you think ?
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More then likely, the system is contaminated, and a switch is sticking at times. It's very common. The one thing that seems to get ignored on automobiles is break system flushing. Most people don't realize, but break fluid is water soluble. You don't need fancy cleaners to clean it off surfaces while working with it, just tap water. That being said, because it's water soluble, it is subject to attracting moisture. Over a number of years, you can accumulate a good deal of water in your system. On older non-ABS systems, you often get away without a problem for the life of the vehicle. The problem with ABS is there are switches, sensors and valves in the ABS modulator. Because your break lines are made of mild steel, the water causes rust in the system. Minute rust particles can accumulate in the valves, and ports, and the corresponding switch doesn't react as it would normally, causing you to get the ABS / Brake light intermittently.

There are dozens of other things that can cause the light intermittently, but this is the most common problem we find causing ABS warning lights, and ABS modulator failures.
 
To be clear, I wasn't advising driving from a stop to test the alignment, that's why I said let go while driving. I probably should have specifically said coast for people who don't know, but I thought it would be clear I didn't mean hop on the freeway and floor it :)

As far as the rest, my truck is front wheel drive, and doing that was how I found out mine was off. I took it to get fixed last year and now it doesn't do it. It could be a split axle vs solid axle thing, because Neons do it too. Although the more I tear into my truck, the more I find out it's an unusual 98 Explorer. Apparently I have the kind that only something like 15% or some crap are, with the X vin. I have no idea what that means, other than most parts I need require a scavenger hunt.
Posted via BGO Mobile Device
 
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Miles Monroe said:
And no, I'm not trying to discredit you, or derail your thread.
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I know you aren't, never a concern with you. Besides, you're a mechanic, you know way more than I do about this. I have a lot of knowledge about a lot of this stuff, but even all of that is nowhere near as much as you have from doing it for a living.

The ABS thing you posted is crazy though. I had never heard that. I've had 3 different vehicles have ABS light issues, and they were all from a bad alternator. I guess I'm luckier than I think :D
 
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Burgundy Burner said:
Appreciate the info Miles. I've done several rear wheel drive jobs over the years, but never a front wheel job. And that brings me to a question - I'm assuming this applies to 4WD vehicles too.

Too, I always checked by coasting anyway - just figured that was a given.
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That's the bad thing about the internet. Too many givens. I do a lot of online trouble shooting, and you can't leave even the slightest detail out, or the person can be going off in the wrong direction. Problem is, nobody is perfect. Repair instructions are generally easier to convey, it's diagnostic that are tough. Ladder logic is the way I generally go about it. It's also important to use the proper terms for parts and procedures so when you do have to deal with a part supplier, life is easier. Many people behind the parts counter don't know jack.

4WD can be weird a completely different game. Solid front axles tend to track fine, but cars because of the independant suspension, and different length of the front axles, will get torque steer to some lesser degree because the rear also putting power to the ground counteracts the front force.

Always coasting is simple enough to do with any vehicle.
 
Extreme said:
To be clear, I wasn't advising driving from a stop to test the alignment, that's why I said let go while driving. I probably should have specifically said coast for people who don't know, but I thought it would be clear I didn't mean hop on the freeway and floor it :)

As far as the rest, my truck is front wheel drive, and doing that was how I found out mine was off. I took it to get fixed last year and now it doesn't do it. It could be a split axle vs solid axle thing, because Neons do it too. Although the more I tear into my truck, the more I find out it's an unusual 98 Explorer. Apparently I have the kind that only something like 15% or some crap are, with the X vin. I have no idea what that means, other than most parts I need require a scavenger hunt.
Posted via BGO Mobile Device
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OH, I know you weren't, your instructions are clear enough for people to follow. I used the "from a stop" as an example on how you can actually see the torque steering effect on how the vehicle will track when under power. That's why I recommend getting up to speed, and going into neutral, that way you don't have any power input to the drive what so ever. Even coasting in gear can effect it with front WD.

When looking for parts for your explorer, you may want to look at Mazda and Nissan part listings. Can't remember which was involved with the Explorer at the time. I use to get Mazda parts for Ford Probes when they first hit the market because Ford didn't have them available early on with some stuff.
 
It's Mazda parts. When I first started seeing the Mazda listings come up I figured it was an error. But since they looked exactly the same I figured what the hell and ordered some. Sure enough, those were the parts. It baffled me, but they fit and the regular 98 Explorer parts didn't, strange stuff.

The best example was the coil pack I replaced a couple of months ago. I ordered based on what I drive, and when it arrived and all of the parts were angled and misaligned, that was when I discovered the difference between E vin and X vin Explorers. It was a headache at first, but when you're essentially rebuilding a clunker, you learn quick what does and doesn't work for parts.
 
Extreme said:
It's Mazda parts. When I first started seeing the Mazda listings come up I figured it was an error. But since they looked exactly the same I figured what the hell and ordered some. Sure enough, those were the parts. It baffled me, but they fit and the regular 98 Explorer parts didn't, strange stuff.

The best example was the coil pack I replaced a couple of months ago. I ordered based on what I drive, and when it arrived and all of the parts were angled and misaligned, that was when I discovered the difference between E vin and X vin Explorers. It was a headache at first, but when you're essentially rebuilding a clunker, you learn quick what does and doesn't work for parts.
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Yup... I go through it all the time with VIN breaks, and products coming from different plants. I ran into a bushing a few months ago that had 6 different listings depending on engine number, and which plant it came from. Keeps ya on your toes.....
 
The funny thing is, it can make you chase your tail on the most mundane things. Perfect example, the PCV valve grommet. I bought one that was supposed to fit. It didn't. So I got a universal one, it didn't fit. Since they were cheap, I said to hell with it and ordered all 6 of the possible sizes for my truck. Not one fit. They all had the same problem, either the inlet hole was too small, or the outer diameter was too small. Even the one Ford kept insisting was the correct one I didn't even bother buying, because mine is the size of a silver dollar, and they were telling me to use the one they had that was the size of a quarter.

Eventually, I took mine into every parts store around and comparing it in person before I found one that was close enough to do the job - but still not the right one.
 
Had a Peugot sedan years back that wouldn't idle properly. If you pulled the dipstick out a tiny bit, the idle would smooth out....

Amazing how a clogged PCV valve can effect your engine. By pulling the dipstick out a tiny bit, it allowed enough ventilation of the crank case for it to idle smoothly.
 
That's awesome. My old Duster had problems starting, and I was having a hard time finding the cause. Apparently it was a short, I just never found it. What I did do, was stick a battery in my trunk and rewire a lot of things to that and operated it with a toggle switch. Basically the ignition system, fuel system, etc. were on the main battery, and all the dash electronics, headlights, etc. were on the other battery. It had no problems after that unless I drove at night and needed the occasional jump start for my headlights, which I gave to myself :laugh:

I seriously doubt if that would even be possible now with everything being computerized.
 
It's too easy for John Doe to hook up cables backwards, if he can even find the battery. Hell, at this point, using the wrong multi meeter can actually cause damages to some stuff.

Had to retire a perfectly good meeter a few years back, and get a high end electronics meeter, which didn't make me happy.
 
Just a couple of things:

1/. With some vehicles, you can replace the alternator brushes in situ - without having to remove the alternator.

2/. If you ever do feel the need to clean your vehicles brakes, as outlined above, make sure the vehicle is on jack stands. DO NOT work on ANY vehicle with just a jack! The slightest knock and you could be wearing the vehicle as a badge!

3/. No need to completely remove the caliper when replacing pads. Just remove the bottom bolt, and the whole caliper assembly will then pivot upwards. Noo chance of dropping it then, and less stress on the brake line.
 
SkinnedAussie said:
3/. No need to completely remove the caliper when replacing pads. Just remove the bottom bolt, and the whole caliper assembly will then pivot upwards. Noo chance of dropping it then, and less stress on the brake line.
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It completely depends on the vehicle. For example, my truck (the vehicle pictured) has a stop in the caliper that prevents rotation, so you have to remove it or it isn't moving.

Also, it's a lot easier to get the caliper back on over the pads if you compress the cylinders instead of trying to line it back up perfectly flush with the pads and forcing it on, which can break or bend the spring. It's a shortcut a lot of people use that should never be used. Kinda like people who siphon gas out by mouth instead of with a $3 siphon pump :laugh:
 
Extreme said:
As promised, here is how you clean your brakes......

Tools needed:
Tire iron or torque wrench with 19mm socket and extender
13mm socket wrench
White lithium grease spray
Brake cleaner
Jack
Jack stands if you have them
Zip ties or rope if you plan to tie off your caliper
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I also need one of those "C-Clamps", right ?
Many thanks for your taking much time that you put into this ! :)

Miles Monroe said:
More then likely, the system is contaminated, and a switch is sticking at times. It's very common. The one thing that seems to get ignored on automobiles is break system flushing. Most people don't realize, but break fluid is water soluble. You don't need fancy cleaners to clean it off surfaces while working with it, just tap water. That being said, because it's water soluble, it is subject to attracting moisture. Over a number of years, you can accumulate a good deal of water in your system. On older non-ABS systems, you often get away without a problem for the life of the vehicle. The problem with ABS is there are switches, sensors and valves in the ABS modulator. Because your break lines are made of mild steel, the water causes rust in the system. Minute rust particles can accumulate in the valves, and ports, and the corresponding switch doesn't react as it would normally, causing you to get the ABS / Brake light intermittently.

There are dozens of other things that can cause the light intermittently, but this is the most common problem we find causing ABS warning lights, and ABS modulator failures.
Click to expand...

So, if it's water in the system, is there a way to drain the water out of your brake system, similar to if you had air in the system ?
 
The general rule of thumb is if you have water in your brake system, the fluid is contaminated and the WHOLE system should be flushed clean.
 
Yes, you do need a c-clamp. If you have a harbor freight tools near you (just check on their site) I highly advise getting any tools like this that you need at their store, because what would cost you $50 at Lowes will likely be under $15 at Harbor Freight. I bought a $130 air compressor there last year for $39.99.
 
Fear The Spear said:
So, if it's water in the system, is there a way to drain the water out of your brake system, similar to if you had air in the system ?
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SA is spot on. A complete change of fluid is the only way to do it.

The best advice I have when it comes to more then minor service of the brakes, such as pad or shoe changes, or cleaning and lubricating, have a pro diagnose and repair the problem. Screwing with some modern brake systems can get you killed if you're not 100% sure about what your doing. I know we're all looking to save some money where ya can, but your life depends on your brakes. Is saving some bread worth it if you kill yourself, a family member, or a stranger ?

It's more often then not we have people try to save a bit by flushing their brake system, and then limp into the shop with barely any brakes, or towed in.

I had a customer screw up his engine trying to install an accessory. He's well educated, a doctor. He turned a two week old, 17K motorcycle, into a lump of scrap metal. Catastrophic engine failure. The engine needed over 9K in repairs.... the accessory cost 150$. Trying to save a few bucks, he lost his bike for a month, and paid enough to go on a nice vacation.

A thread like this is a good thing. There's lots of things the average guy can do to save some bread. There are also things people shouldn't mess with no matter what video they watched on line, or were told on a forum.

Diagnostics, and repair of ABS brake system is one IMO.
 
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